Archive for July, 2009

Way too much time in our hands!

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009

We had allocated 11 days to climb Elbrus, but 3 days from Salt Lake City we already summited the highest summit of Europe creating an issue. What to do with 8 extra days? Well that is not to difficult to arrange.
On june 8 we did the West summit in 4hs,35″ and the same day we got back to the Hotel, on July 11 we headed up again by departing from the hotel at 8,40am and reaching the East Summit at 2,22pm, so about 4hs,22′ from the last ski lift at 3,750 with a approximate elevation gain of 1837 meters, we used running shoes for speed, same as for Elbrus west.
Two days at the hotel was enough for us to start getting a bit of ants on our butts, so with a border permit in hand we departed on July 13 for a mega marathon of peak bagging, witch ended early as we encountered the worsrt rock ever on my 22 years of peak bagging.
We will depart tomorrow for Moscow and to Kilimanjaro we go!

All the best
damian

4 Down 3 to go!

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

On July the 7 we headed up to the high camp of Elbrus, with the idea of spending few days there and getting ready for the summit, but the next morning we woke up at 4,30 am and decided on given the summit a try.  Well 4 and 1/2 later we where at the summit! Awesome! Not only we climbe in 4,34.57 but also we ski a great line on the south west summit ridge of the west summit.

Damian

Denali is done, now Elbrus

Monday, July 6th, 2009

Hello all,

Had been a very long time without news.

A  quick recap of the past month.After Everest we got back to Salt Lake City for 4 days and then traveled to Argentina for 3 days, returning in to SLC on June 13, on June 14 we traveled to Anchorage and then to Talkena for a quick trip up Denali.

The trip to Denali was short but supper hard.

Our camp at 11,000'

Our camp at 11,000'

Our idea was to ski from the summit as fast as possible, but at the same time because we just finished with Big E, we wanted to eat good. So we loaded our snow sledges with 200 lb of good, super good food! At 1100′ we where eating burritos with fresh eggs and beef.We landed at BC on the 16 and arrived at 14,000′ on the 23rd after few storms on 11,000′.

On the 24 we went to 16,000 for a ski run, where we triggered a very goo size avalanche just right o the fix lines. A super wake call of conditions in the mountain!! On the 25 we woke up to an awesome day, but as all of our stuff was wet, the idea that we could just go for the summit right there was quickly put in the back. In the afternoon as we where working on our gear we could see the team of Theluride dropping the rescue gully from 17,200′, after few turns we could see a huge slide being trigger just up down from her. Kim got got on the huge slide and after the cloud dissipated we could see her half way up the face. Quick I got ready in case if help was needed and after we talked with the park rangers and other climbers we decided on going up to help Kim. I finished that day at midnight and after good night sleep and we a traditional wak up call of Johnny and Damian

we left 14,000′ at 11.30am for the summit with we reached 6,45 hs later and back in Camp by 10 pm. What a hard day, supper windy and super cold with the worst conditions for skiing!!! we finished skiing from the summit ridge to 17,200′ and from Washburn’s Thumbs to 14,400′ On the 26 after a restful morning we departed for the 15 miles ski to BC.

Fine reading for and Artic storm.

Fine reading for and Artic storm.

Wonder how it could feel been inside a white ball, well that is how we felt from Windy pass to 9,400′, complete whiteout!!!
An for moments complete lost! We arrived on the 28 to Anchorage and took a read eye Alaska airline to SLC.

Rested at home for 4 days and now we are in Elbrus, getting some sleep and getting ready to climb Elbrus supperfast so we can have some time to play around here. Today I so this supper long ice/snow gully from the hotel!

Our slide of June 24th

Our slide of June 24th

The resceu party heding to help Kim. note the avalanche debris.

The resceu party heding to help Kim. note the avalanche debris.

Johnny on the way to the summit at 16,800'

Johnny on the way to the summit at 16,800'

Damian at the Summit with 1 21 celcius! Brrrr cold!!!!

Damian at the Summit with 1 21 celcius! Brrrr cold!!!!

Johnny on the summit with the Sickbird buckle!!!

Johnny on the summit with the Sickbird buckle!!!

More news soon

Damian and Johnny!!!