Regular Route

NORMAL NORTHWEST ROUTE - RUTA NORMAL

The Normal Route is our most popular. Although the route is a mountain walk rather than a technical climb, the altitude and the possibility of sudden weather changes
make this a very physical and challenging expedition. While most of the mountain is on loose talus fields, often times we need an ice axe and crampons for summit day.

QUALIFICATIONS FOR CLIMBING THE REGULAR ROUTE:

The Normal Route along the Northwest Ridge is a non-technical, yet physically demanding climb that incorporates all the logistics of climbing a big mountain. The ascent does require basic mountaineering skills. Expedition members should be versed in the use of ice axe and crampons and have strong backpacking skills. This is a challenging route for novice and experienced climbers alike and an ideal choice for those with some high altitude, general mountaineering experience such as Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the Mexican or Ecuador Volcanoes.
Regardless of route choice, it is the high altitude and potentially extreme weather that challenge the climber ascending Aconcagua's slopes. The reward for your dedication and hard work is standing on the summit of the highest point in the Western Hemisphere.

2008/ 2009 Dates (21 days)

LOW SEASON Dec 9 - 29, 2008 Feb 4 - 25, 2009 Land Cost: $3,750. Minimum Group required: 3 climbers

HIGH SEASON Dec 16-Jan 5 2008 Jan 6 - 28, 2009 Land Cost: $4,000 Minimum Group required: 3 climbers
Client to Guide ratio: 3:1
Climbing grade: Advanced Beginner

WHY GO WITH PATAGONIAN BROTHERS EXPEDITIONS?

Experience

• Damian and Willie Benegas have been athletes for The North Face for 10 years. They challenge themselves on the hardest mountains around the world.
• More than 20 years and 60 summits experience on the mountain.
• Veteran guides with extensive high altitude experience around the world from Aconcagua to Mount Everest.
• Knowledgeable office staff with climbing experience on Aconcagua .

Support

• Our own special high altitude camps to keep away of the crowds!
• Low client-to-guide ratio.
• Proven acclimatization program.
• Porter support for equipment and supplies.

Comfort

• New or current season North Face Tents- (double occupancy).
• State of the art High Camp gear and equipment.
• The best food in the mountain in the High Camps!
• We mean the Best Food!
• Delux Base Camp featuring Grajales BC services, cook tent, electricity, movie night, and showers.
• Unlimited use of satellite phone for our clients (plenty of battery time for you to call any time - (per minute fee will apply).

Safety

• Guides are equipped with state of the art radios.
• Pulse Oximeter- oxygen saturation levels monitored daily to check for proper acclimatization.
• Gamow Bag- a hyperbaric chamber stationed at Base Camp.
• MEDICAL DOCTOR on call 24 hrs a day by radio
• We have several medical doctors on call during the entire expedition to answer medical questions.
• 3 days built in for summit attempt

Stewardship

Patagonian Brothers cares deeply about the culture and environment of Aconcagua. We make a point of leaving the mountain in better condition than we found it. Not only do we carry out all of our group’s trash and waste, we spend the time and effort to clean up after other less thoughtful groups. Although our clean up efforts may take more time, effort, and indeed, cost more, we feel we would be disrespecting the mountain, the locals, and our clients if we did anything less.
Examples of what we do:

• Fair wages for muleteers, cooks and porters involved in the expedition
• Portable toilet at all high camps and removal of human waste
• Pack it out” ethic

Patagonian Brothers expeditions reflect the spirit of mountain exploration in an exciting, yet safe and intimate atmosphere. We take pride in providing our groups with the best opportunity to summit and to discover a mountain of possibilities on Aconcagua.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON ACONCAGUA

QUALIFICATIONS FOR CLIMBING THE REGULAR ROUTE:

The Normal Route along the Northwest Ridge is a non-technical, yet physically demanding climb that incorporates all the logistics of climbing a big mountain. The ascent does require basic mountaineering skills. Expedition members should be versed in the use of ice axe and crampons and have strong backpacking skills. This is a challenging route for novice and experienced climbers alike and an ideal choice for those with some high altitude, general mountaineering experience such as Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the Mexican or Ecuador Volcanoes.
Regardless of route choice, it is the high altitude and potentially extreme weather that challenge the climber ascending Aconcagua's slopes. The reward for your dedication and hard work is standing on the summit of the highest point in the Western Hemisphere.

TRAINING PROGRAM:

We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure.

WEATHER:

Aconcagua, like all big mountains, generates and attracts its own weather, making it impossible to predict. Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights, to snowy and windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list. Climbers early in the season, on our December and January climbs, should expect to find large snowfields high on the mountain, while climbers later in the season, on our February trips, will encounter less snow and more dry, rocky trail - there may, of course, be some variation to this from one season to the next. Aconcagua is located at 32 degrees 39 minutes south, the same distance from the equator as San Diego, California. The best time to climb Aconcagua is from December to early March, during the Southern Hemisphere's summer. Days of clear sunny skies are the norm on Aconcagua, but the mountain does receive storms during the summer months due to the moist, humid winds blowing west from the Pacific Ocean. As this air rises over the slopes of the Andes, its speed increases and it condenses to form lenticular clouds on the summit, also known as viento blanco, or white wind. In general, winds from the south are usually a sign of good weather and enable us to go for a successful summit bid.

FOOD:

Patagonian Brothers is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. During the tented portion of the trek we will provide a selection of meals including pastas, rice, soups, and fresh foods. Bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats.

VISA:

For US citizen No VISA is required for stays in Argentina up to 90 days all other national check the Argentinean web consulate on your country

HEALTH REQUIREMENTS:

Vaccinations are not required unless traveling through an infected area.

TRAVEL AND FLIGHT INFORMATION:

It takes as long as three months to make your travel plans and to obtain the necessary passport for your trip. We strongly recommend that you begin this process as soon as possible.
We suggest that you obtain an evening flight to Santiago, Chile, which arrives early in the morning and in time for a connecting flight to Mendoza, Argentina later that day (day two of the itinerary).

TRIP CANCELLATION:

We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.
HOW DO I SIGN UP? Please call our office if you do not already have an application, or you can download it off our website. We require an application and a $500 deposit for international trips.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

Trek and approach to Base camp: Daypack will be as heavy as you choose. The daypack contain the items you choose to carry, such as camera, rain gear, snacks, water and some layers for cold for cold conditions.
Base Camp to high camps: On expeditions where porter support is available expect to carry 15-25kg.
On an expeditions where no porter support is available expect to carry all of your personal gear plus the share of group equipment.
How this works: Let’s say that your personal gear is 17 kg and the total of group equipment; tents and supplies is 100kg, so your share of the group equipment is the total divided by total amount of members. 100kg/members=Personal share of equipment. In average the share is 10kg plus.
On Aconcagua, where no porter support is provided, packs are generally 25 to 30kg.

PORTERS.

On Aconcagua, the porters have gradually become an important part. Their main characteristic is that they are very strong people, they have been on the summit many times and this gives them a better athletic condition than the athletes themselves. In Aconcagua Expeditions, we believe that their job, which is carrying the GROUP equipment of expedition such us (tents, kitchen sets, altitude food, fuel, stoves, ropes and the garbage produced by the group), helps our participants to move more comfortable and to save more energy to achieve their goal, which is getting to the summit. Therefore, these people are very important for the success of the expedition. A porter has the possibility to carry 50 lb-25 kilos from Base camp to the high camps; this means that a porter is going to transport each 3 or 4 passenger's share of group climbing equipment. At the same time if one feels that regular Aconcagua loads (45 to 50 lbs) are too heavy, then you can hire a personal load to carry your personal load. We have designed this trip so that at Base Camp you are able to decide how often you will need a porter, and so on. You may use a porter for every carry; you may choose to alternate between days, or simply to experiment as you go.

Aconcagua Schedule

DAY 1: Fly to Santiago and then to Mendoza

DAY 2: Fly from Santiago to Mendoza (2,428 ft.).
A Patagonian Brothers Expeditions guide will meet you at the airport, and escort you to the Hotel El Portal Suites. The summer climate is warm and humid; however, the hotel is air-conditioned for your comfort. Mendoza is an attractive and prosperous town adorned with European style architecture, lush parks, and street side cafes and bars. This wine-producing center of Argentina offers pleasant winery tours and wine tasting opportunities.

DAY 3: Drive to Penitentes
After lunch we will take a private bus towards Puente Del Inca. This journey takes approximately three hours. We will stay a few miles below Inca at Penitentes.
Although this is a ski resort, the weather will be relatively warm and dry. We will stay in one of the hotels.

DAY 4: Trek to Confluencia
After loading equipment onto mules, a pick up truck will drive us as far along the Horcones jeep road. We then trek up the Horcones valley to the green campsite at Confluencia (3200m). This is a short day, but the camp provides plenty of necessary water for camping.

DAY 5-6: Acclimatization at Confluencia
These are critical acclimatization days. From Confluencia we will enjoy acclimatization hikes including a trek Plaza Francia at 4,000 meters. This elevation provides dramatic views of the South Face of Aconcagua.

DAY 7: Trek to Base Camp
From Confluencia we will follow the broad, stone covered valley bottom to a steep trail that leads to a terminal moraine. The base campsite at Plaza de Mulas (4200m) is situated on top of the lateral moraine just off the Horcones glacier beneath the vast west face of Aconcagua. Base camp is very comfortable with a huge mess tent and a full staff of cooks and porters. We provide world-class mountain cuisine that includes vegetarian meals, free-range Argentinean steak, delicious soups, and fresh fruits and vegetables.

DAY 8: Acclimatization at Base Camp
Most people feel the altitude at this point. Here we will rest, acclimate, enjoy the stunning views, and base camp culture.

DAY 9: Transport supplies to Plaza Don Fernando
Load carry from base camp to Plaza Don Fernando (4,800m) Established on 2005-- We return to base camp to sleep. Our first carry will consist of mountain food, fuel
and will take no more than 7 kilos per member. We cache our carry into kits bags, secured by rocks.

DAY 10: Rest and acclimatize at base camp.
Before returning to Plaza Don Fernando, we will take another rest day at base camp. This dramatically improves acclimatization and a successful summit.

DAY 11: Move to Camp 1
Return to Plaza Don Fernando to sleep. This time we must carry all our personal equipment to the camp and will not return to Base Camp unless forced to by bad weather. Local guides who serve as seasonal porters carry tents, stoves, cooking equipment and fuel. Expect to carry about 15 to 20 kilos on this day.

DAY 12: Transport of supplies to Plaza Don Benegas
Load carry to Plaza Don Benegas (5,400m). Return to Canada to sleep. We will cache almost all our food and fuel stocks to Camp II. This trip is optional, as you might want to rest and acclimate in camp.

DAY 13: Move to Camp II
We return to Don Benegas to sleep. We must now carry our personal equipment up to Camp II Porters will come up to Plaza Don Fenrnando from Base Camp to carry our
tents to Camp II. We will make our camp and look forward to a rest day.

DAY 14: Rest day at Plaza Don Benegas
Another rest day will provide you with more rest, and time to acclimate. At this point we will focus on sleeping, hydration, and eating well. On a clear day, the views from
Nido are unforgettable. Weather permitting we will enjoy pleasant base camp tours. However, winds and cold weather may confine us to our tents for most of the day. It
is useful to pack reading material, cards, or a Walkman.

DAY 15: Move to Camp Colera- Plaza Caluba established in 2006
Today we move approximately 3 hours to Plaza Caluba at 5,900 meters. We will carry three days of food, fuel, personal equipment, and tents.

DAY 16: Summit day!
The summit day is a long, yet satisfying. Normally beginning with a wake up at first light, departing between 6 and 8 am depending on the wind, and ending late afternoon. The summit day involves nothing more than mountain walking, albeit at high altitude. In good conditions the small emergency refuge at Independencia is reached in two and a half hours, and the base of the Canaleta is an additional two and a half hours away. The Canaleta is about 300 meters in vertical elevation gain. At this point we calculate approximately one hour per 100 meters of elevation gain. The Canaleta gully sometimes requires a little scrambling to the final summit ridge, which provides outstanding views down the South Face. A metal cross adorns the summit and is
accompanied by a summit register. The views from the summit on a clear day are superb, and can stretch as far as the Pacific Ocean.

DAY 17: Descend to Base Camp
Descend from Plaza Do Fermin to base camp. We will probably have some
equipment and food to pick up at Plaza Don Benegas, which will be shared between
team members.

DAY 18-19: Standby Days
Additional summit days are included to accommodate itinerary and weather changes.

DAY 20: Trek out from Base Camp
We walk out from Base Camp to the trailhead at Puente Del Inca. The walk, which
took three days to accomplish on the way in, will take about 6-7 hours. This is a long
challenging day, but you will be rewarded with a hot shower, drinks, delicious meal at
the hotel. Celebrate!

DAY 21: Drive to Mendoza

Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.